Year in review: watches & jewellery editor Hannah Silver picks her 10 top jewellery posts from 2021
Wallpaper’s Hannah Silver appears again and reveals her top rated 10 jewellery tales from 2021, from higher jewelry layout to alternative engagement rings and guy-produced diamonds
Uncover the leading 10 jewellery posts for 2021, as picked by Wallpaper* watches & jewelry editor Hannah Silver. From the functions of emerging designers to large jewellery showstoppers, in this article are some of the year’s ideal jewelry stories (in no certain get).
Major 10 jewellery stories of the year
01. Person-built diamonds defined
As man-manufactured diamonds become a popular choice for alternative engagement rings, so the curiosity close to them grows, with many unclear about what sets them aside from purely natural diamonds. There is no specialized, physical, chemical or optical big difference in between a lab-grown diamond and a real diamond – the one variance is how they arrived into getting.
02. Cartier pays homage to its most legendary patterns
‘Our items are marked by a purity of line, a precision of form and important particulars,’ states Arnaud Carrez, head of worldwide promoting and communications, Cartier Global, on the new campaign devoted to the maison’s iconic styles. ‘We needed to rejoice them all together and demonstrate what they have in common.’ Cartier is shining the highlight on classic collections from the last century, with the Santos, Tank, Trinity, Enjoy, Juste Un Clou, Panthère and Ballon Bleu all celebrated as a lesson in long lasting layout.
03. Concealed diamonds make for personal engagement rings
Alternate engagement rings are reduced down to essential silhouettes by Jenny Sweetnam, who has long gone again to fundamentals with her new assortment, Inverse. The 2018 Wallpaper* Style and design Award winner has set up herself as a contemporary jewellery designer who provides a freshness to conventional pieces, as a result of a uncomplicated and impressive approach. The new selection builds on these foundations with sculptural patterns in 18ct yellow gold that make discreet, intimate engagement tokens or even men’s engagement rings.
04. Conventional gold jewellery rethought by Laud
Awah, resourceful director of Laud, brings an offbeat sensibility to jewellery layout. Recognized three decades back, the emerging jewelry brand intertwines a variety of influences for parts that engage in with geometry and rethink conventional motifs. The new collections, offered at Dover Avenue Marketplace and Browns, rethink symbolic motifs in yellow and white gold parts inspired by both equally African art and Awah’s Ghanian heritage. The eternity ring and the signet ring, reconsidered via Awah’s lens, nod to the intricacies of stained glass, its designs interpreted in irregularly placed speckles of diamonds.
05. Melanie Georgacopoulos’ new jewellery casts pearls and diamonds in a contemporary light-weight
After celebrating the ten-yr anniversary of her eponymous model in 2020, Melanie Georgacopoulos was keen to mark the milestone with a improve of route. Her new jewellery collection, titled Carats, is the 1st time she has labored with both natural pearls and diamonds. In a enjoy on texture, Georgacopoulos unites the two materials, the really hard diamonds showing to sink into their delicate cushions of mom-of-pearl. The outcome is of spontaneity the diamonds, seemingly just pressed in, follow the rules of gravity and power the jeweller to relinquish handle. ‘The reduction of command was a feeling I have experienced since Covid-19 began, and it was crucial for me to find a way to showcase it in my jewellery,’ Georgacopoulos says.
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06. Schiaparelli’s 2021 significant jewelry assortment launches at Paris Couture 7 days
Inventive director Daniel Roseberry brings unadulterated pleasure to his 3rd collection for Schiaparelli, for a mischievous take on the traditionally significant business of couture. His collection pays tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli’s experimental spirit and her Surrealist solution, which arrived to existence by way of collaborations with Dali, Cocteau and Guy Ray. Her impact is obvious in the specifics: ‘One matter that a couture atelier can uniquely do is embellishments, and these parts are stunning examples of the artwork of embroidery and beading,’ suggests Roseberry. ‘I’ve generally admired how Elsa embroidered pieces – in an period in which embroidery experienced a whispery, pretty much recessive high-quality, hers were barbaric and unapologetic.’
07. Chaumet’s golden just take on the cityscape
Chaumet marked its 240th anniversary in 2021 with a new assortment that attracts on a host of defining cultural references from the significant jewellery house’s record. The ‘Perspectives de Chaumet Skyline’ necklace usually takes present day cityscapes as its inspiration, rewriting their clash of geometry in warm yellow gold that has been polished, openworked, engraved and hammered. ‘The do the job of gold on this piece is a tribute to the 1960s and 1970s, from the time of Pierre Sterlé and René Morin,’ says Chaumet CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt. A serrated silhouette provides an illusion of chaos, a nod to deconstructivism Mansvelt factors to Irving Penn’s Collapse and Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater as immediate inspirations.
08. The sensual jewellery style and design of Hugo Kreit
‘My jewelry is fun and glamorous, but there’s also something disturbing when you come into get in touch with with the items,’ suggests French jeweller Hugo Kreit. ‘The shapes are in motion, the textures and finishes are dripping. I like to shock, I appear for the enchantment in the subversive and the unusual.’ Experienced in industrial design and style, Kreit worked in the style clearly show production marketplace for Hermès, Dior, Jacquemus and many others just before turning to jewellery design and style: ‘Both ordeals showed me the remarkable electric power of trend displays, the art of style storytelling by collective performances, image crafting and aspiration generating,’ he claims.
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09. 10 jewellery designers rethink the vintage engagement ring for De Beers
De Beers has partnered with 10 jewelry designers for the start of ‘Ten/Ten’, a constrained-version assortment of 100 alternative engagement rings. Just about every jeweller established a person accessibly priced style, reinterpreting the traditional codes of an engagement ring and centring their layouts spherical ethically-sourced diamonds from Botswana. ‘The inspiration for Ten/Ten was truly pushed by a mixture of items,’ states Stephen Lussier, De Beers govt vice president of customer markets. ‘We wished to assist the persons of Botswana whose financial state is dependent on diamond revenues, to permit a lot more people to discover the unbelievable creativity of 10 unbiased designers and to provide anything genuinely specific to couples hoping to get engaged this calendar year.’
10. NFT jewellery: is blockchain bling a issue?
Jewelry designer Simone Faurschou unveiled her new good jewelry as a digital assortment of NFT parts just before the actual physical start. The collection, Blockchain, composed of solid white and yellow gold blocks with man-designed diamonds, explores the strategies we join with know-how – and how technologies connects with us. Immediately after a year in which engineering has both connected and isolated us, it is a well timed examination.